Happily Hooked Magazine | Parchment Meadow Pillow


So you guys have heard me talk about Happily Hooked Magazine before right? Well if you haven’t heard of it it’s a monthly online US magazine for crocheters filled with patterns, articles, interviews and more PATTERNS!

Issue 36 of Happily Hooked has now hit the e-newstands with 10+ pretty and practical home decor projects, and I’m really thrilled to have a brand spanking new cushion design exclusive to this months magazine. 

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The Parchment Meadow Cushion is a large 40.5cm x 40.5cm (16 x 16 inch) square cushion patterned with soft, pretty coloured meadow flowers on a plain natural coloured background. 

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Decorate your bed or couch with this chunky pillow with contrasting crocheted and embroidered motifs. Perfect to mix and match with plain cushions.

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I had great fun with this design incorporating 3-D meadow flowers on the textured parchment – and did I say how much I LOVE the texture of this pillow (so did my testers!). 

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What is very exciting, since the last time I worked with Happily Hooked Magazine, is that they now offer a print + digital version of the magazine where each month you get a printed copy, with patterns from the previous 2 issues! 

Check out the Happily Hooked Magazine website for more details about the magazine and how you can subscribe and you can add the pillow pattern to your 💗 Favourites and Ravelry Queue here.

Well until next time, happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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I Like Crochet Magazine | Jelly Bean Bunny


Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links, when you make a purchase through these links I do receive a small commission – thank you so much for supporting my blog! 💗

The April 2017 issue of I Like Crochet magazine is now available for your reading and crochet pleasure…and it’s chock-a-block full with over 27 lovely Spring patterns for you…including one designed by me!

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If you haven’t heard of I Like Crochet magazine before it’s a US bi-monthly digital magazine which is published by the creators of AllFreeCrochet.com.

Can’t wait to get ready for Easter? For this months issue I have designed a sweet little Jelly Bean Bunny amigurumi which you can personalise in your favourite spring colours and add a yummy sweet snack in its arms. It’s a fab little stash buster for any odds and ends that you have lying around – you can make up a load of bunnies in no time!  

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This month’s features:

  • 27+ spectacular spring projects
  • Easter Sweets
  • Fairy Tale Shawls
  • Birds of a Feather
  • Crochet Classics
  • Make it for Mom

There are patterns for Easter, mum, and just for you!

SUBSCRIBE TODAY to get your own copy of my new pattern plus more straight to your desktop or iPad.

Well until next time, happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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2016 in a Nutshell


I thought I’d do a little review of my hooky year in pictures…

January saw the release of the biggest thing I worked on all year. It’s also the item and design which I am ultimately most proud of. The Everything Is Cool and Groovyghan 2016 Crochet-A-Long is definitely the most challenging thing I have designed and shared so far and the finished groovyghans made by other crafters have just blown me away (you lot are amazing!). Although the crochet-a-long has now finished you can still make a groovyghan of your very own by checking out the details on the blog here.

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February and March I was busy growing a human which turned out to be quite hard work! So, aside from the groovyghan, there wasn’t a whole lot of crocheting going on…

Then in April my new shawl pattern, The Spring Blossom Wrap, was released in iLikeCrochet Magazine. Worked in a smooth 4ply cotton yarn and a 3.5mm hook I was really pleased with the floral look I eventually achieved on this shawl which I based on cherry blossoms.

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In May and June baby had finally arrived so I got back to a little hooking by working up some quick little hats and a headband for my new arrival. I just chose some patterns on Ravelry that I liked the look of and they actually turned out to be all free patterns. The hats and tie back I made include the Sedge Stitch Newborn Beanie, the Bonnie Bell Bonnet, the TopKnot Baby Hat and the 15 Minute Tieback.  The Bonnie Bell Bonnet was one of the first hats I hooked up. It’s such a cute design and as its worked in Aran (Worsted) weight yarn it’s very quick to work up.

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In July I hooked up a little Amineko cat for Little G’s summer fayre, such a fun design and super cute!

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In August and September I was working on some exciting patterns for October (more on that later) but I still found time to hook up a little Pumpkin hat for the baby and Baabara for this years Yarndale charity project

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and I finally finished a work in progress which had been started a year previously! The Corner to Corner Granny Stitch Throw  was a great pattern to use up loads of odds and ends of double knit in my stash…

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So October was a busy and exciting month; my RainBOW Clip Organiser was released in Issue 31 of Happily Hooked Magazine…and I was completely delighted to be asked to take part in the Stylecraft Blog Tour for 2016 for which I designed the Harmonious Hexagon Blanket (free pattern here).

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In November and December I hooked up several Christmassy items for my girls including some cute Elfin baby boots and some fabulous elf hats. I also hooked up a fab little mouse baby hat for a Micky fan – unfortunately this particular pattern is no longer available, there are plenty of alternatives out there though if you are looking for this style.  

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I also hooked up my special animals from my TOFT yarn and some awesome little Princesses for some gorgeous little girls; but I’m going to blog about those later so I’ll save those ta-dah moments for 2017!

Wow, I enjoyed that stroll down memory lane! I find when it’s all written down like this that I have accomplished more than I realised! Crochet is such a big part of my life that sometimes I forget what I have been up to in the year as I’m concentrating on the next design or project.  The most fantastic thing about crochet is that it continually brings me happiness, fun challenges, surprises, satisfaction at a job completed and most of all relaxation. 

So what can you look forward to in 2017 from me?

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I have so many plans for 2017! I’m extremely excited to be working with several crochet magazines this year on new designs, I’ve also got various exciting collaborations coming up, I’m going to be catching up with patterns that I didn’t finish due to being pregnant (and ill) and then having a newborn (for those waiting for Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds – this is at the top of the list!) AND we’ve got a brand new crochet-a-long to look forward to (starting in March) which is also in development behind the scenes as we speak.

Finally I’d like to say a mahoosive thank you to everyone who has followed me on the blog or on social media in 2016…

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My thanks is to everyone who may have brought and/or made any of my patterns, who have read my musings following me here on the blog and for those who have offered / or continued to offer their hands in friendship. I cannot tell you how much I appreciate your support, enthusiasm and your camaraderie and how much I love to see your finished work!

Well until next time, happy hooking and keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Stylecraft Blog Tour 2016 | Harmonious Hexagons Quilt Free Pattern Release


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So following on from my last post about this I must say again how chuffed to bits I am to be one of the bloggers for this years Stylecraft Blog Tour to celebrate the winning colours, from the recent poll they conducted, for their Special Aran and Special Chunky yarns. 

Monday the tour visited Emma Varnam’s blog and we got to see her beautiful Blencathra Blanket, yesterday we popped round to Janie Crow’s blog and drooled over her gorgeous Diego’s Flowers motif (make sure you check them out if you haven’t already) and today the tour is with me!

First off if you are new to my blog WELCOME one and all! So pleased you could join me, I have a brand new pattern, using Stylecraft Special Chunky, to share with you and later there will also be a chance to win your very OWN Stylecraft colour pack so stay tuned for that.

Right lets quickly recap about the colours which I reviewed here.  The wonderful public chose 6 colours…

Pale Rose  Empire  Storm Blue  Sage Pistachio  Saffron 

but for my new pattern a couple more colours have been added for a nice balanced palette.

Parchment Pomegranate  Spice  Gold

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Although I played around with different shapes and designs on paper and in my head the thing I was certain about was that I wanted to use all ten colours in my pattern. Shape wise I’ve worked with so many squares / rectangles recently that I also knew that I wanted to do a different shape. But what to make…that was the quandary! In the end I decided I wanted to make a nice thick lapghan to keep me warm as our British nights grow ever cooler.  

I have always had a fascination with patchwork and, as someone that can’t sew for toffee, love to see this medium re-created in crochet.  There are some fabulous patterns out in the crochet-verse already inspired by quilts (like the gorgeous Sunny Log Cabin blanket by Attic24 or the Jewelled Star Blanket by Janie Crow) and this definitely motivated me to try and create my own patchwork inspired design.

 I have to confess when I got my yarn to play with I kept on returning to the idea of a rainbow with chunks of solid colour (because who doesn’t love a rainbow) and there is just something so satisfyingly delicious I’ve discovered about pure colour chunky hexagons!  

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My finished pattern embraces a contemporary look that allows bold pops of rainbow colours to illuminate a classic patchwork design. So without further ado let me introduce you to the Harmonious Hexagon Quilt…

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I had so much fun making these hexagons and playing with the colours that I didn’t want it to stop!

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As the yarn is super nice and chunky the pattern works up quickly, and as it’s made in pieces it’s a great project to take out and about with you if you want to hook on the go.

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The finished blanket measures 118 cm x 98cm (46.5 x 38.5 inches) so the perfect size to throw over your lap to ward off a chill. 

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The hexagon motifs do not require advanced skills to execute and, as always with my patterns, terminology is written in both UK and US terms. I have included explanations of all stitches and abbreviations and also added some photos in the pattern to hopefully help with any tricky parts!

Click the link below to add the Harmonious Hexagon Quilt to your Favourites and Ravelry Queue.  

          HARMONIOUS HEXAGON QUILT           ♥ 

If you’re not on Ravelry and you’d like a copy of the pattern, you can get in touch with me via email at kcacouk at gmail dot com and I’ll send you a pdf version.

If you would like to win a pack of Stylecraft Special Chunky in the colour pack I have used follow the link below to enter the competition. 

  COMPETITION now closed, congratulations to Beverley Lotz    

And the exciting news is that the Stylecraft blogtour has only just begun! Make sure you check out Stylecraft’s Facebook page for details over the next couple of weeks to find out the blogger of the day, get their fabulous free pattern and to be in with a chance to win a yarn pack!  Still to come at some point are the following bloggers:  

  1. Crafternoon Treats
  2. The Twisted Yarn
  3. Patchwork Heart
  4. Le Monde de Sucrette
  5. Hand Knitted Things
  6. Cherry Heart
  7. Sue Pinner
  8. Annaboo’s House

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 16


Oh my goodness!! Can you believe how close we are to the end here folks! On’y the border to go after this post and then the BIG REVEAL!!! I can’t wait to see your finished work!

If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here.  There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for FacebookTwitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.  

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to Hebrew by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: Grannys-Cabin-Hebrew-final (1)

Part 16: Granny’s Cabin 5 inch block:

I’ve had such fun playing around with granny square designs for this CAL and really like log cabin crochet designs I have seen around the web so this next square is definitely inspired by those.  I think this is one of my favourite squares and I’m already planning how a baby blanket would look using them – I’ll keep you updated on that! 

As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

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Written Pattern:

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Granny’s Cabin 5 inch block (Make 10):

Notes:

  • Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
  • Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
  • Yarn Amount required: Each square roughly uses up 33 yds (30 m / 10 g) / Total squares 330 yds (300 m / 100 g)
  • Gauge in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts or 2 clusters = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

  • Finished square size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3: 5 x 5 inches / 12.7 x 12.7 cm

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp(s) = space(s)
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain(s)
  • tr/dc  = UK treble / US double crochet
  • [ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified

Stitch Guidance: 

  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

Pattern:

  • Note: Three colours used for each block; referred to in this pattern as YARN A, B and C

Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 2:   Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * (second corner made), repeat from * to * twice more, sl sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (24 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 3: Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the same sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between the cluster of tr/dc’s of the previous round,  [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous round and in the ch 3 sp, turn (18 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

Rnd 4:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc),  3 tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of previous rnd twice, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, 1 tr/dc in the top of the ch 3 stitch of rnd 3, finish off and weave in ends (20 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

Rnd 5:  Join YARN C into the sp between the last tr/dc and the next cluster of tr/dc of the previous rnd, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the same sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, 3 tr/dc in the sp between the last tr/dc and cluster of tr/dc of rnd 4, turn (24 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

Rnd 6:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc),  3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, 1 tr/dc in the last tr/dc stitch of rnd 5, turn (26 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

Rnd 7:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc),  2 tr/dc in the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * work around the block (on the top of rnd 2) repeat from * to * three times, 3 tr/dc in the last ch 3 sp, ch 3 and sl st to the top of the first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (88 sts + 4 x 3 ch)

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Chart:

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

 

Joining:

  • Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your squares steady and lined up whilst you join them together.
  • Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that the crochet squares have.

Join your granny squares together in one long strip for PART 16 (please refer to the CAL schematic below for details) by slip stitching in the front loop only on the wrong side of the work; 

  1. line up your blocks so the edges and stitches match,
  2. then start sl st in the front loop only, starting at the last ch of a ch 3 sp, and along each edge, working the stitches through both squares and joining on the first ch of the ch 3 sp – 17 sts in total joined.

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Photo Tutorial:

Pattern:

  • Note: Three colours used for each block; referred to in this pattern as YARN A, B and C

Rnd 1: With YARN A, Ch 4, sl st to form a ring, sl st into the ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3, * 3 tr/dc into the ring, ch 3*, repeat from * to * twice more, sl st to top of ch 3 to join, then sl st to the nearest ch 3 corner (12 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

Rnd 2:   Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), [2 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the same sp (first corner made), * [3tr/dc, ch 3, 3tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * (second corner made), repeat from * to * twice more, sl sl st to top of ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (24 sts + 4 x 3 ch sps)

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Rnd 3: Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the same sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between the cluster of tr/dc’s of the previous round,  [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous round and in the ch 3 sp, turn (18 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

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Rnd 4:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc),  3 tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of previous rnd twice, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, 1 tr/dc in the top of the ch 3 stitch of rnd 3, finish off and weave in ends (20 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

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Rnd 5:  Join YARN C into the sp between the last tr/dc and the next cluster of tr/dc of the previous rnd, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into the same sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd twice, 3 tr/dc in the sp between the last tr/dc and cluster of tr/dc of rnd 4, turn (24 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

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Rnd 6:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc),  3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, 1 tr/dc in the last tr/dc stitch of rnd 5, turn (26 sts + 1 x 3 ch sps + 12 sts and 1 x ch 3 sp from rnd 2)

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Rnd 7:  Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc),  2 tr/dc in the same sp, * 3tr/dc into the sp between each of the clusters of tr/dc’s of the previous rnd three times, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp * work around the block (on the top of rnd 2) repeat from * to * three times, 3 tr/dc in the last ch 3 sp, ch 3 and sl st to the top of the first ch 3 to join, finish off and weave in ends (88 sts + 4 x 3 ch)

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And that’s it! Part 16 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 17 – THE BORDER to be released on 24 August 2016.

 

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 10


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Well here we are at part 10, released a little earlier than scheduled (I didn’t think you would mind) as I have a family matter I have to deal with this week which meant I couldn’t bank on getting this blog post out to the world on Wednesday.

The exciting thing about part 10 is that means you’ve pretty much completed over half of the finished blanket.  I do hope you are enjoying the crochet journey so far!

If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here.  There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for FacebookTwitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.  

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on  the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated to Hebrew by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: Go-go-Herringbone-10-inch-Granny-Square-hebrew-final

Part 10: Go-Go Herringbone 10 inch Block 

This weeks CAL square is not the grooviest of all the pieces we are going to make but it’s an integral part of bringing the whole design together.  Inspired by go-go dancers of the 1960’s this block uses a standard stitch…but with a twist!  The overall effect is a lightly textured fabric with a subtle zig-zag effect that is very pleasing!

As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

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Written Pattern:

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Part 10: Go-Go Herringbone 10 inch Block (Make 2):

Notes:

  • Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
  • Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
  • Yarn Amount required: Each panel roughly uses up  125 yds / 50g / 150 m
  • Gauge using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

  • Finished panel size using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 10 x 10 inches /25.4 x 25.4 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp = space
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain  
  • FDC/FSC = Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet
  • HBhtr/HBhdc  = Herringbone UK half treble / Herringbone US half double crochet

Stitch Guidance: 

  • Foundation UK Double / US Single Crochet (FDC/FSC):  Start with a slip knot on your hook, ch 2, * insert hook in 2nd ch from hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 1 loop, yarn over, and pull through 2 loops * – 1 FDC/FSC single crochet made with its own chain at bottom, repeat from * to * until you have made the required number of chains.  For a photo tutorial of FDC/FSC please see part 2 of this CAL.
  • Herringbone Half Treble / Herringbone Half Double Crochet (HBhtr/HBhdc): Your stitch should slant to the left; when worked in rows it creates a herringbone effect. Yarn over, insert the hook into the next st, yarn over and pull the loop through the st AND through the first loop on the hook (two loops on hook), yarn over, draw through both loops on hook. 

Pattern:

  • Note 1: I used multiple colours for this block but you could make the panel in any amount of colours you like.
  • The ch 1 after a turn does not count as a st

Row 1: FDC/FSC 33 sts, turn, ch 1 (33 sts)

Row 2: HBhtr/HBhdc in each st along until end, turn, ch 1 (33 sts)

Row 3: HBhtr/HBhdc in each st along until end, finish off and weave in ends (33 sts)

Row 4: Attach new colour to the last st created, ch 1, 1 HBhtr/HBhdc in the same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn, ch 1 (33 sts)

Row 5: HBhtr/HBhdc in each st along until end, turn, ch 1 (33 sts)

Row 6: HBhtr/HBhdc in each st along until end, finish off and weave in ends (33 sts)

Row 7 – 30: Repeat rows 4-6

Finishing: Very loosely (as otherwise it will make your panel curl up) slip st along the short edges of your work 33 times (so you have 33 sts on each ‘turned’ end) to neaten your panel and to help with any joining.

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Chart:

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(c) http://www.designz.shibaguyz.com

KCACOUKCAL2016-PART10

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Joining:

  • Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your squares steady and lined up whilst you join them together.
  • Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that the crochet squares have.

Join your blocks as per the CAL schematic (details below) for PART 10 by slip stitching in the front loop only on the wrong side of the work; I chose to add my stripes vertically but choose the way you prefer for your blanket.

Groovyghan-Numbered-Part10

Photo Tutorial:

Herringbone Half Double Treble / Herringbone Half Double Crochet (HBhtr/HBhdc):

Yarn over, insert the hook into the next st, yarn over and pull the loop through the st AND through the first loop on the hook (two loops on hook),

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yarn over, draw through both loops on hook. 

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Part 10: Go-Go Herringbone 10 inch Block (Make 2):

Row 1: FDC/FSC 33 sts, turn, ch 1 (33 sts)

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Row 2: HBhtr/HBhdc in each st along until end, turn, ch 1 (33 sts)

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Row 3: HBhtr/HBhdc in each st along until end, finish off and weave in ends (33 sts)

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Row 4: Attach new colour to the last st created, ch 1, 1 HBhtr/HBhdc in the same st as beginning ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn, ch 1 (33 sts)

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Row 5: HBhtr/HBhdc in each st along until end, turn, ch 1 (33 sts)

TUT05

Row 6: HBhtr/HBhdc in each st along until end, finish off and weave in ends (33 sts)

TUT06.jpg

Row 7 – 30: Repeat rows 4-6

03

Finishing: Very loosely (as otherwise it will make your panel curl up) slip st along the short edges of your work 33 times (so you have 33 sts on each ‘turned’ end) to neaten your panel and to help with any joining.

And that’s it! Part 10 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 11 to be released on 1st June 2016.

KCACO-UK Groovyghan CAL 2016 | Part 9


Group-Banner

Time for part 9! Have you got your hooks at the ready!?

If this is the first you are hearing about this CAL the full schedule can be found here, to link the groovyghan project on Ravelry click here, or for just this pattern click here.  There is a Facebook support group for this CAL which can be found here and you can use the hashtag #kcacoukcal2016 for FacebookTwitter, Pinterest and Instagram if you want to link in photos and such like on social media.  

For a print friendly version of this page please scroll to the bottom of this post and click on  the Print & PDF button.

Edited to add: This page has now been translated into Hebrew by the lovely Sarit Grinberg: Wish-Upon-A-Star

Part 9:  Wish Upon a Star 10 inch Block 

This weeks CAL block is brought to you with the dulcet tones of Louis Armstrong singing ‘Wish Upon a Star’  (recorded 1968).  I just LOVE his smooth and velvety voice! Makes me want to be sitting in a comfy chair, drinking tea with a hook and yarn in my hand…so with out further ado, lets get on to our next CAL block.

As with all the parts to this CAL I have included both the written pattern, chart and a photo tutorial of how I have made this pattern below.

Written Pattern:

skill2.gif

Part 9:  Wish Upon a Star 10 inch Block:

Notes:

  • Hook: UK 4 mm / US Size G
  • Yarn: Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3
  • Yarn Amount required: Each panel roughly uses up  125 yds / 50g / 150 m
  • Gauge using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 6 tr/dc sts = 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm

If your gauge is different to mine e.g. because you are using a bigger hook and heavier weight yarn all you will need to do is check your own gauge and stick to it – this should mean that the pattern should fit together at the end.

  • Finished panel size using Double Knit / 8 ply / Weight #3: 10 x 10 inches /25.4 x 25.4 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Pattern uses English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms for a conversion chart click here.

Abbreviations: 

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp = space
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain  
  • dc/sc = UK double / US single crochet
  • htr/hdc = UK half treble / US half double crochet
  • tr/dc  = UK treble / US double crochet
  • dtr/tr = UK double treble / US treble crochet
  • BLO = Back Loop Only
  • [ ] = work anything in brackets into one space or stitch as specified

Stitch Guidance: 

  • UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc):  Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • UK Half Double Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • UK Treble / US Double Crochet (tr/dc): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
  • UK Double Treble / US Treble (dtr/tr): Yarn over hook (twice), insert hook in indicated st and pull up a loop (four loops on hook), Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (three loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull yarn through two loops on hook (two loops remain on hook). Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

Pattern:

Rnd 1: With YARN A, ch 4, sl st to form a ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work 15 tr/dc into the ring, sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join (16 sts)

Rnd 2: Ch 5 (counts as first tr/dc + ch 2) tr/dc into the same st as the beginning the ch 5 st, skip next st * [1 tr/dc. ch 2, 1 tr/dc]  in the next st, skip next st * repeat from * to * six times, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch 5 to join (16 sts + 8 x ch 2 sps)

Rnd 3: Sl st to the next ch 2 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) work  [1 tr/dc. ch 3, 2 tr/dc]  in the same sp then *  [2 tr/dc. ch 3, 2 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, repeat from * to * six times, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch 3 to join (32 sts + 8 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 4: Sl st to the next ch sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) work  [2 tr/dc. ch 3, 3 tr/dc]  in the same sp then *  [3 tr/dc. ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, repeat from * to * six times, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch 3 to join (48 sts + 8 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 5: Sl st to the next ch sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) work  [3 tr/dc. ch 2, 4 tr/dc]  in the same sp then *  [4 tr/dc. ch 2, 4 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, repeat from * to * six times, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (64 sts + 8 x ch 2 sps)

Rnd 6: Working in the BLO for this round apart from where you sl st in the ch 2 sp; attach YARN B with a sl st to any ch 2 sp (star point), * 1 dc/sc in the next st, 1 htr/hdc in the next, 1 tr/dc in the next, 1 dtr/tr in the next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in the next, 1 htr/hdc in the next,  1 dc/sc in the next st, sl st in the ch 2 sp, * repeat from * to * seven times, sl st to the top of the beginning sl st to join, finish off YARN B and weave in ends (72 sts)

Rnd 7: Working in the BLO for this round except for in the corners; attach YARN C to any  st, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in the next 4 sts, 2 tr/dc in the next, * 1 tr/dc in the next 5 sts, 2 tr/dc in the next * repeat from * to * until end, sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN C and weave in ends (84 sts)

Rnd 8:  Join YARN B in-between any st of rnd 7, 1 dc/sc in same sp, ch 3, * 1 dc/sc in-between the next 3 tr/dc of previous rnd, ch 3, skip 3 sts* repeat from * to * 26 times, ch 3, join to beginning dc/sc to join, finish off YARN B and weave in ends (28 dc/sc + 28 ch 3 sps)

Rnd 9: Join YARN D to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into same ch 3 sp, ch 3, 3 tr/dc into the same sp (corner made), * 3 tr/dc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 htr/hdc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 dc/sc in the next 2 ch 3 sps, 3 htr/hdc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next ch 3 sp, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp (next corner made) * repeat from * to * twice, 3 tr/dc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 htr/hdc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 dc/sc in the next 2 ch 3 sps, 3 htr/hdc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next ch 3 sp, join to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, sl st to the nearest ch 3 sp (96 sts + 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 10: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into same ch 3 sp, ch 3, 3 tr/dc into the same sp (corner made), * 3 tr/dc in-between the next st of sts from the previous rnd and in-between the next 7 set of sts from the previous rnd, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp (next corner made)* repeat from * to * twice, 3 tr/dc  in-between the next 7 set of sts from the previous rnd, join to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, sl st to the nearest ch 3 sp (108 sts + 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 11: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into same ch 3 sp, ch 3, 3 tr/dc into the same sp (corner made), * 3 tr/dc in-between the next st of sts from the previous rnd and in-between the next 7 set of sts from the previous rnd, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp (next corner made)* repeat from * to * twice, 3 tr/dc  in-between the next 7 set of sts from the previous rnd, join to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN D and weave in ends (120 sts + 4 x ch 3 sps)

Rnd 12: Working in the BLO for this round except for in the corners; Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), ch 3, 1 tr/dc into the same sp (corner made), * 1 tr/dc in the next 30 sts,  [1 tr/dc, ch 3, 1 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp (next corner made)* repeat from * to * three times,  sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN b and weave in ends (128 sts + 4 x ch 3 sps)

01

Chart:

COMING SOON!

For crochet symbols in English (UK) and American (US) crochet terms click here.

Blocking:

Some of the patterns in the CAL may need to be ‘blocked’ so that they are equal on all sides (not curling) and fit the size dimensions of the pattern.   If you are unfamiliar with what blocking means / or how to do it then please check out the following links:

You may already have blocking boards to hand but if not anything you can firmly pin your square to will do e.g. a folded up towel or an ironing board.

Part 9 finished panel size in double knit / 8ply / yarn weight #3 should be 10 x 5 inches /25.4 x 12.7 cm cm (your block will be slightly larger if using worsted / aran / 10ply / yarn weight #4)

Joining:

You can either join part 9 directly to your other parts now (please refer to the CAL schematic below details), or wait until you have completed parts 10 too – I personally waited so I could get a neater join by joining parts altogether in one sequence.

I joined my pieces together by slip stitching in the back loop only on the wrong side of the work (you could also single crochet either through the back loop or through both loops to join).

  • Tip 1: Use stitch markers or knit clips to hold your pieces steady and lined up whilst you join them together; line up your pieces so the edges and stitches match.
  • Tip 2: Do not pull your yarn too tight when working your joins. Generally you should have the same sort of stretch that your piece has. 

Groovyghan-Numbered-Part9

Photo Tutorial:

Rnd 1: With YARN A, ch 4, sl st to form a ring, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) then work 15 tr/dc into the ring, sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join (16 sts)

TUT01

Rnd 2: Ch 5 (counts as first tr/dc + ch 2) tr/dc into the same st as the beginning the ch 5 st, skip next st * [1 tr/dc. ch 2, 1 tr/dc]  in the next st, skip next st * repeat from * to * six times, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch 5 to join (16 sts + 8 x ch 2 sps)

TUT02

Rnd 3: Sl st to the next ch 2 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) work  [1 tr/dc. ch 3, 2 tr/dc]  in the same sp then *  [2 tr/dc. ch 3, 2 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, repeat from * to * six times, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch 3 to join (32 sts + 8 x ch 3 sps)

TUT03

Rnd 4: Sl st to the next ch sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) work  [2 tr/dc. ch 3, 3 tr/dc]  in the same sp then *  [3 tr/dc. ch 3, 3 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, repeat from * to * six times, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch 3 to join (48 sts + 8 x ch 3 sps)

TUT04

Rnd 5: Sl st to the next ch sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc) work  [3 tr/dc. ch 2, 4 tr/dc]  in the same sp then *  [4 tr/dc. ch 2, 4 tr/dc] into the next ch 3 sp, repeat from * to * six times, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN A and weave in ends (64 sts + 8 x ch 2 sps)

TUT05

Rnd 6: Working in the BLO for this round apart from where you sl st in the ch 2 sp; attach YARN B with a sl st to any ch 2 sp (star point), * 1 dc/sc in the next st, 1 htr/hdc in the next, 1 tr/dc in the next, 1 dtr/tr in the next 2 sts, 1 tr/dc in the next, 1 htr/hdc in the next,  1 dc/sc in the next st, sl st in the ch 2 sp, * repeat from * to * seven times, sl st to the top of the beginning sl st to join, finish off YARN B and weave in ends (72 sts)

TUT06

Rnd 7: Working in the BLO for this round except for in the corners; attach YARN C to any  st, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in the next 4 sts, 2 tr/dc in the next, * 1 tr/dc in the next 5 sts, 2 tr/dc in the next * repeat from * to * until end, sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN C and weave in ends (84 sts)

TUT07

Rnd 8:  Join YARN B in-between any st of rnd 7, 1 dc/sc in same sp, ch 3, * 1 dc/sc in-between the next 3 tr/dc of previous rnd, ch 3, skip 3 sts* repeat from * to * 26 times, ch 3, join to beginning dc/sc to join, finish off YARN B and weave in ends (28 dc/sc + 28 ch 3 sps)

TUT08

Rnd 9: Join YARN D to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into same ch 3 sp, ch 3, 3 tr/dc into the same sp (corner made), * 3 tr/dc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 htr/hdc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 dc/sc in the next 2 ch 3 sps, 3 htr/hdc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next ch 3 sp, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp (next corner made) * repeat from * to * twice, 3 tr/dc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 htr/hdc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 dc/sc in the next 2 ch 3 sps, 3 htr/hdc in the next ch 3 sp, 3 tr/dc in the next ch 3 sp, join to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, sl st to the nearest ch 3 sp (96 sts + 4 x ch 3 sps)

TUT10

Rnd 10: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into same ch 3 sp, ch 3, 3 tr/dc into the same sp (corner made), * 3 tr/dc in-between the next st of sts from the previous rnd and in-between the next 7 set of sts from the previous rnd, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp (next corner made)* repeat from * to * twice, 3 tr/dc  in-between the next 7 set of sts from the previous rnd, join to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, sl st to the nearest ch 3 sp (108 sts + 4 x ch 3 sps)

TUT10a

Rnd 11: Ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 2 tr/dc into same ch 3 sp, ch 3, 3 tr/dc into the same sp (corner made), * 3 tr/dc in-between the next st of sts from the previous rnd and in-between the next 7 set of sts from the previous rnd, [3 tr/dc, ch 3, 3 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp (next corner made)* repeat from * to * twice, 3 tr/dc  in-between the next 7 set of sts from the previous rnd, join to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN D and weave in ends (120 sts + 4 x ch 3 sps)

TUT11

Rnd 12: Working in the BLO for this round except for in the corners; Join YARN B to any ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), ch 3, 1 tr/dc into the same sp (corner made), * 1 tr/dc in the next 30 sts,  [1 tr/dc, ch 3, 1 tr/dc] in the next ch 3 sp (next corner made)* repeat from * to * three times,  sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3 to join, finish off YARN b and weave in ends (128 sts + 4 x ch 3 sps)

02

And that’s it! Part 8 completed!

Don’t forget to stay tuned for Part 9 to be released on 18th May 2016.