Stitch Story Crochet Along | Design 2 – Moss Stitch


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Are you all ready and waiting for block 2? I’ve really enjoyed being tagged to see all the wonderful first blocks you’ve made! However don’t worry if this is the first you are hearing about this CAL you can find the full schedule and Scheepjes yarn amounts here and a link to the crochet along page here. Would you like to see photos and specification all at once? Then click here for the Pinterest Board!

So let’s just quickly run through some of the pattern particulars…

Pattern:

This pattern will be free here on the blog but it’s also available in an e-book on Ravelry.  There is a small charge for the downloadable 46 page PDF e-book (payable once). The booklet will be released in instalments, along with the CAL, so as not to spoil anyone’s fun. This PDF has the full pattern descriptions, charts and information all in one place without adverts (as requested).

Through the course of this crochet-along I will provide you with patterns to make twelve different blocks, each in two different sizes. Which one you make is totally up to you! Make all one size or mix and match, whatever takes your fancy!  However to give you a helping hand I have included some schematics which you can see on this post here.

Support:

  • The KCACO-UK Community Facebook Group  is a great source of support and helpful tips from fellow Crochet-a-longers.
  • NEW! There is now a Ravelry thread for support with the Stitch Story CAL facilitated by the lovely Reimy.
  • A Dutch translation will be available by Iris from Een Mooi Gebaar (and a Dutch e-book will be coming soon to Ravelry) 
  • Accompanying CAL videos are being created by Esther from It’s All in a Nutshell. Link to Part 2 is below:

Stitch-Story-Part2

Social Media Links:

The hashtag for this years CAL is #SSCAL18 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: RavelryFacebook page or Facebook group and Pinterest.

Stitch Story…

Block 2 of the Stitch Story CAL represents carrageen moss which is a type of seaweed found on the Irish Coast. The stitch symbolises abundance, growth and nature.

Design 2: Irish Moss

Hook: 4 mm / US size G or size needed to obtain 15cm /6” or 30cm / 12” square 

Abbreviations (same for both blocks):

  • Chain (Ch)
  • Slip Stitch (Sl St)
  • UK Half Double Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc)

Stitch Guidance (same for both blocks):

  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.
  • UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • UK Half Double Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in next st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.

15cm / 6 inch block:

Block2-01-SML

  • Note: Ch1 doesn’t count as a st
  • Note2: Don’t pull your sl st’s too tight

Row 1: Ch26, htr/hdc in 2nd ch from hook * sl st in the next, htr/hdc in the next st * turn (25sts)

Row 2: Ch1, sl st on top of the htr/hdc, * htr/hdc on top of the sl st, sl st on the htr/hdc of the previous row* repeat from * to * until end, turn.

Row 3: Ch1, htr/hdc in the same st as the ch1 * sl st in the next st, htr/hdc in the next st * repeat from * to * until end, turn.

Row 4-30:  repeat row 2 & 3 for pattern until end, finish off and weave in ends.

Block2SML-SSCAL-CHART

30cm / 12 inch block:

Block2_LRG-SSCAL18

  • Note: Ch1 doesn’t count as a st
  • Note2: Don’t pull your sl st’s too tight

Row 1: Ch51, sl st in 2nd ch from hook *htr/hdc in the next st, sl st in the next * repeat from * to *ending with a htr/hdc on the last st, turn (50sts)

Row 2: Ch1 * sl st in the next st, htr/hdc in the next st, * repeat from * to * until end, turn.

Row 3– 60: repeat row 2 for pattern until the end, finish off and weave in ends.

Block2LRG-SSCAL-CHART

Edging for all blocks: 

On the right side of your work evenly work dc/sc along each side of your block working 3 dc/sc in each corner (25sts for smaller block / 50sts for larger block).  Fasten off and weave in ends.

You do not need to use the same number of stitches I have for each square, you just need to evenly spread the single crochet border along the rows and edges.  Whatever number edging you use just keep the same number of stitches for ALL of your blocks – with the same count of single crochet border on each edge then they will line-up when its time to turn them into a finished blanket.

And that’s it!

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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Stitch Story Crochet Along | Design 1 – Gauge Square


Blog-And-We-are-off-SSCAL18+Text

Let’s get this CAL up and running shall we! It’s time for block 1 and I’m very excited to get started – how about you? However don’t worry if this is the first you are hearing about this CAL you can find the full schedule and yarn amounts here and a link to the crochet along page here. Would you like to see photos and specification all at once? Then click here for the Pinterest Board!

Pattern:

This pattern will be free here on the blog but it’s also available in an e-book on Ravelry.  There is a small charge for the downloadable 46 page PDF e-book (payable once) and the booklet will be released in instalments along with the CAL so as not to spoil anyone’s fun. This PDF has the full pattern descriptions, charts and information all in one place without adverts (as requested).

Through the course of this crochet-along I will provide you with patterns to make twelve different blocks, each in two different sizes. Which one you make is totally up to you! Make all one size or mix and match, whatever takes your fancy!  However to give you a helping hand I have included some schematics which you can see on this post here.

Support:

Stitch-Story-Part1

Social Media Links:

The hashtag for this years CAL is #SSCAL18 for Twitter and Instagram. Though you you can join in with any progress photos by linking your projects on your favourite social media sites: RavelryFacebook pageor Facebook group and Pinterest.

Right let’s get started!

Design 1: Gauge Swatch

Hook: 4 mm / US size G or size needed to obtain 15cm/6” or 30cm / 12” square 

Abbreviations (same for both blocks):

  • Chain (Ch)
  • UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc)
  • UK Half Double Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc)
  • UK Alternating Half Double Treble / US Alternating Half Double Crochet (Alt htr/Alt hdc)

Stitch Guidance (same for both blocks):

  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull through all loops.
  • UK Double Crochet/US Single Crochet (dc/sc): Insert hook in st indicated and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on hook.
  • UK Half Double Treble / US Half Double Crochet (htr/hdc): Yarn over, insert hook in next st and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops on hook.
  • Alternating Half Double Treble / Alternating Half Double Crochet (Alt htr/Alt hdc): This stitch is worked exactly like a normal htr/hdc but you work the stitches in the back and front loops; alternating from one to the other as you work. When you start the next row your first st should be the SAME as your last st e.g. if you have worked in the BLO, you will start in the BLO

15cm / 6 inch block:

Block1SML-SSCAL

Note: Ch1 doesn’t count as a st

Row 1: Ch26, 1htr/hdc in 2nd ch from the hook and in each st along, turn (25sts)

Row 2: Ch1, starting in the front loop; 1 Alt htr/Alt hdc in the same st as the ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn.

Row 3-18:  repeat row 2 for the pattern until end, finish off and weave in ends.

Block1SML-SSCAL-CHART

30cm / 12 inch block:

Block1_LRG-SSCAL18

Note: Ch1 doesn’t count as a st

Row 1: Ch51, 1htr/hdc in 2nd ch from the hook and in each st along, turn (50sts)

Row 2: Ch1, starting in the front loop; 1 Alt htr/Alt hdc in the same st as the ch 1 and in each st along until end (ending in the back loop), turn.

Row 3: Ch1, starting in the back loop; 1 Alt htr/Alt hdc in the same st as the ch 1 and in each st along until end, turn.

Row 4-36:  repeat rows 2 and 3 for the pattern until end, finish off and weave in ends.

Block1LRG-SSCAL-CHART

Edging for all blocks: 

On the right side of your work evenly work dc/sc along each side of your block working 3 dc/sc in each corner (25sts for smaller block / 50sts for larger block).  Fasten off and weave in ends.

You do not need to use the same number of stitches I have for each square, you just need to evenly spread the single crochet border along the rows and edges.  Whatever number edging you use just keep the same number of stitches for ALL of your blocks – with the same count of single crochet border on each edge then they will line-up when its time to turn them into a finished blanket.

And that’s it!

Until next time; keep calm and crochet on my friends xx

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KCACO-UK Afghan CAL 2015 -Block 1


Yay so it’s time for block 1!!! How exciting!!!  AND it’s my first design for 2015 so super exciting!!!  You can tell how excited I am by the abundance of exclamation marks!!!

Yes I thought that I would have a go at designing the first block for the CAL, I wanted it to be fun, yet simple to ease us into the CAL process.  Believe it or not this was the first 12 inch square I have EVER made or designed and it was sooo enjoyable after designing many 6 inch ones.  It seemed huge too but, I tell you what, it some how seemed so much more satisfying when I’d finished it.  Hope you enjoying hooking it up too – I can’t wait to see what you come up with!!!

This square will be available as a free Ravelry download forever or scroll down the page to where I have also posted the pattern below.

Don’t forget to stay tuned for the next block to be released on January 21st (or 22nd)

Moroccan Window 12″ Square by Heather C Gibbs

06+Logo

Notes:

  • Hook: UK 5.5 mm / US Size I
  • Yarn: Aran / 10 ply / Worsted / Weight #4
  • Colours: Works best in at least 4-5 different colours.  For ease I have noted colour changes on each round referred to in this  pattern as YARN A, B, C and D
  • Pattern uses UK and American crochet terms: see the following link for a printable conversion chart: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/70437470329344/ 
  • Specialist stitch: UK Front Post Double Crochet / US Front Post Single Crochet (FPSC) – see a good video tutorial here if you are not sure how to do this stitch; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UvdqqR2Kkho
  • You will also need:  A Yarn Needle 

Gauge:    7 tr/dc = 2 inches / 5 cm

Size: 12 inch x 12 inch / 30.5cm x 30.5cm

These measurements are approximated, and actual subjects may vary. Pattern will work in other yarns though gauge/size will be different.  CHECK YOUR GAUGE, use any size hook to obtain gauge.

Abbreviations:

  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sp = space
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • ch(s) = chain  
  • dc/sc = UK double / US single crochet
  • htr/hdc = UK half treble / US half double crochet
  • fpdc/fpsc = UK Front Post double crochet / US Front Post single crochet
  • tr/dc  = UK treble / US double crochet
  • dtr/tr = UK double treble / US treble

Pattern:

(Updated 12/02/2015)

Rnd 1: With YARN A; either make a magic ring (adjustable ring) to start or ch 3, (doesn’t count as a st), crochet 16 htr/hdc into the ring / 3rd ch from hook then sl st to top of 1st htr/hdc to join, use tail yarn to tighten centre ring closed if necessary. Finish off with an invisible join and weave in ends  (16 sts).

Rnd 2: With a sl st attach YARN B to any st then ch 3 (counts as a tr/dc), add a [tr/dc, ch 2, 2 tr/dc] in the same st as your beginning ch 3, * ch 1, skip the next st, 1 tr/dc in the next st, ch 1, skip the next st, [2 tr/dc, ch 2, 2 tr/dc] in the next st * repeat from * to * twice, ch 1, skip the next st, 1 tr/dc in the next st, ch 1, then sl st to top of 1st tr/dc to join. Finish off and weave in ends (20 sts + (4x)ch 2 sps and (8x)ch 1 sps).

Rnd 3: With a sl st attach YARN A to any ch 2 sp corner;  ch 3 (counts as a tr/dc), add a [tr/dc, ch 2, 2 tr/dc] in the same sp, * 1 tr/dc in the next 2 sts, 1 dtr/tr in the skipped st of rnd 1,  1 tr/dc in the next st, 1 dtr/tr in the skipped st of rnd 1, 1 tr/dc in the next 2 sts, work [2 tr/dc, ch 2, 2 tr/dc] in the next ch 2 sp * repeat from * to * twice, 1 tr/dc in the next 2 sts, 1 dtr/tr in the skipped st of rnd 1,  1 tr/dc in the next st, 1 dtr/tr in the skipped st of rnd 1, 1 tr/dc in the next 2 sts, sl st to top of 1st ch 3 to join. Finish off and weave in ends (44 sts + (4x)2ch sps).

Rnd 4: With a sl st attach YARN B to any ch 2 sp  corner;  ch 1, 1 dc/sc in same sp, ch 2, 1 dc/sc in same sp, * 1 dc/sc in the next 4 sts, 1 fpdc/fpsc in the next st, 1 dc/sc in the next st, 1 fpdc/fpsc in the next st, 1 dc/sc in the next 4 sts, [1 dc/sc, ch 2, 1 dc/sc in the next ch 2 sp], * repeat from * to * twice, then 1 dc/sc in the next 4 sts, 1 fpdc/fpsc in the next st, 1 dc/sc in the next st, 1 fpdc/fpsc in the next st, 1 dc/sc in the next 4 sts, sl st to top of 1st dc/sc to join. Finish off and weave in ends (52 sts + (4 x)ch 2 sps).

Rnd 5: With a sl st attach YARN A to any ch 2 corner; ch 2 (counts as first htr/hdc), 1 htr/hdc in same ch 2 corner, ch 2, 2 htr/hdc in the same ch 2 corner * 1 htr/hdc in the next 13 sts, [2 htr/hdc, ch 2, 2 htr/hdc in the next ch 2 corner], * repeat from * to * twice, 1 htr/hdc in the next 13 sts, sl st to top of 1st ch 3 to join. Finish off and weave in ends (68 sts + (4 x)ch 2 sps).

Rnd 6: With a sl st attach YARN C to any ch 2 sp     corner;  ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in same sp, ch 2, 2 tr/dc in the same sp *  1 tr/dc in the next 2 sts, ** ch 1, skip next st, 1 tr/dc in next st **  repeat from ** to ** five times, ch 1, skip next st, 1 tr/dc in the next 2 sts, [2 tr/dc, ch 2, 2 tr/dc in the next sp], * repeat from * to * twice, then ** to ** once more, ch 1, skip next st, sl st to the top of 1st ch 3 to join. Finish off and weave in ends. (56 sts + 28 x ch 1 sps and 4 x ch 2 sps).

Rnd 7: With a sl st attach YARN A to any ch 2 corner; ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in same ch 2 corner, ch 2, 2 tr/dc in the same ch 2 corner * 1 tr/dc in the next 4 sts, ** 1 dtr/tr in the skipped st of rnd 6, 1 tr/dc in the next st ** repeat from ** to **five times, 1 dtr/tr in the skipped st of rnd 6, 1 tr/dc in the next 4 sts, [2 tr/dc, ch 2, 2 tr/dc in the next sp] *  repeat from * to * twice, then ** to ** once more, 1 dtr/tr in the skipped st of rnd 6, 1 tr/dc in the next 4 sts, sl st to the top of 1st ch 3 to join. Finish off  and weave in ends. (100 sts +   (4x) ch 2 sps).

Rnd 8: With a sl st attach YARN C to any ch 2 sp  corner;  ch 1, 1 dc/sc in same sp, ch 2, 1 dc/sc in same sp, * 1 dc/sc in the next 6 sts, ** 1 fpdc/fpsc in the next st, 1 dc/sc in the next st ** repeat from ** to ** six times, 1 dc/sc in the next 6 sts, [1 dc/sc, ch 2, 1 dc/sc in the next ch 2 sp] *  repeat from * to * twice, then ** to ** once more, 1 dc/sc in the next 5 sts, [1 dc/sc, ch 2, 1 dc/sc in the next ch 2 sp], 1 dc/sc in the next 6 sts, sl st to top of 1st dc/sc to join. Finish off and weave in ends (108 sts + (4x) ch 2 sps).

Rnd 9: With a sl st attach YARN A to any ch 2 corner; ch 2 (counts as first htr/hdc), 1 htr/hdc in same ch 2 corner, ch 2, 2 htr/hdc in the same ch 2 corner * miss next st, 1 htr/hdc in the next 26 sts, [2 htr/hdc, ch 2, 2 htr/hdc in the next ch 2 corner], * repeat from * to * twice, miss next st, 1 htr/hdc in the next 26 sts, then finish off with an invisible join to top of 1st ch 2 to join and weave in ends. (120 sts + (4x) ch 2 sps).

Rnd 10: With a sl st attach YARN D to any ch 2 corner; ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in same ch 2 corner, ch 2, 2 tr/dc in the same ch 2 corner * 1 tr/ dc in the next 4 sts, ** ch 1, skip next st, 1 tr/dc in next st ** repeat from ** to ** 10 times, 1 tr/dc in the next 3 sts, [2 tr/dc, ch 2, 2 tr/dc in the next sp], * repeat from * to * twice, then 1 tr/dc in the next 4 sts, next repeat ** to ** eleven times, 1 tr/dc in the remaining 3 sts, then finish off with an invisible join to top of 1st ch 3 to join and weave in ends. to join. (88 sts + (44x) ch 1 sps and (4x) ch 2 sps).

Rnd 11: With a sl st attach YARN A to any ch 2 corner; ch 3 (counts as first tr/dc), 1 tr/dc in same ch 2 corner, ch 2, 2 tr/dc in the same ch 2 corner * 1 tr/ dc in the next 6 sts, ** 1 dtr/tr in in the skipped st of rnd 10, 1 tr/dc in the next st ** repeat from ** to **10 times, 1 tr/dc in the next 5 sts, [2 tr/dc, ch 2, 2 tr/ dc in the next sp] * repeat from * to * twice, then 1 tr/dc in the next 6 sts, next repeat ** to ** 11 times, 1 tr/dc in the next 5 sts, then finish off with an invisible join to top of 1st ch 3 to join and weave in ends. to join. (148 sts + (4x) ch 2 sps).

Rnd 12: With a sl st attach YARN D to any ch 2 sp corner; ch 1, 1 dc/sc in same sp, ch 2, 1 dc/sc in same sp, * 1 dc/sc in the next 9 sts, ** 1 htr/hdc in the next st, 1 dc/sc in the next st ** repeat from ** to ** 10 times, 1 dc/sc in the next 8 sts, [1 dc/sc, ch 2, 1 dc/sc in the next ch 2 sp] * repeat from * to * twice, then 1 dc/sc in the next 9 sts, next repeat ** to ** 10 times, 1 dc/sc in the remaining 8 sts, finish off with an invisible join to top of 1st dc/sc to join and weave in ends. (156 sts).

This square will need blocking to pull it into the 12 inch x 12 inch square;

Blocking afghan squares:

To steam block an afghan square pin the square evenly on a flat surface. Set your steam iron (or hand held steamer) on the lowest setting that will produce steam.  Once you have a good steam going, hold the iron or steamer close to the crochet and work in a circular motion over the entire piece until every inch is evenly dampened. DO NOT touch the iron on the yarn! If you find that you must lightly press the square cover it with a cloth first to protect the yarn from the hot metal plate. Allow the pieces to dry  thoroughly before unpinning.

 FromHome1

 

Pattern release: Spot the Giraffe Blanket


Now I think I’ve said before that custom orders are completely my most favourite thing to make!  I love the challenge!  So when I received an order for a giraffe blanket I was super excited.  The customer was happy for me to come up with something ‘giraffy’ but knew they wanted a yellow and brown edge.  So with my design hat on I decided I wanted to do an Afghan square blanket…

https://keepcalmandcrochetonuk.wordpress.com

and after playing around with some yarn I finally got the giraffe ‘face’ I was imagining.  

https://keepcalmandcrochetonuk.wordpress.com

I’m not going to lie to you, sewing on the bits of the face takes dedication but I’m sure you’ll agree that the end result is worth it – my testers recommend sewing on as you go along rather than leaving it all to the end!

https://keepcalmandcrochetonuk.wordpress.com

I must have changed my mind about the edge a kajillion times until I found something that ‘worked’ with the squares but I am so pleased with the end result!  Though now that it’s finished I’m going to have to give it up to it’s new owner baby Thomas for his jungle themed Nursery…I might have to wrestle it off my little one first!

https://keepcalmandcrochetonuk.wordpress.com

Pattern will be released shortly over on Ravelry and Craftsy and as always feature UK and US crochet terminology.  I’ll also be having a competition over on my Facebook page to celebrate the release so make sure you pop by for a chance to win yourself a copy!

Linked with:

Hooking on a Hump Day